Business & Tech

Restaurant Watch: A Taste of Peru on College Avenue

Pucquio is serving dinner in the former Guest Chef space at 5337 College.

New on College Avenue: Pucquio, which opened two weeks ago in the former Guest Chef space at 5337 College Ave. (between Manila and Bryant avenues).

Carlos Moreira and Lissette Quiroz (who are partners in life as well as business) are serving their spin on contemporary Peruvian street food six nights a week, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Both are natives of the coastal area adjacent to Lima, Peru's capital — which may account for the many seafood dishes on the menu.

Rockridge Patch talked with Moreira, the chef, on one of his rare days off. 

First-time diners at Pucquio should try one of the restaurant's many cebiches (raw fish in a marinade, also known as ceviche), Moreira recommends. Choices include several variations on sea bass, calamari, octopus and oysters at $13 each, or you can try a sampler of three small cebiches for $25.

Other good choices for those new to Peruvian food are Quinoa Helada, a salad that mixes quinoa with tomatoes, cucumber and avocado, and Pescado al Ajo, a whole fish served with garlic cream, Moreira suggests.

There's a rotating menu of desserts, with a daily special created by Quiroz, and always homemade ice cream or sorbet and Bombitas de Carretilla, beignets with a sweet potato stuffing.

The menu draws from Peru's mixed culinary heritage, with Inca, Spanish and African influences, Moreira said. The street food tradition is varied and robust.

"There's no Wendy's or McDonald's," Moreira said.

Pucquio is the newest venture from Moreira and Quiroz's catering company Allpa Culinaria, founded in 2009. Right now the new restaurant is absorbing almost all their time.

Pucquio had a two-week pop-up stint at The Guest Chef before opening on a permanent basis. (The innovative Guest Chef, which provided space for short-term pop-up restaurants, closed earlier this year.) Moreira said Pucquio hopes to add lunch service eventually.

Pucquio, 5337 College Ave., Oakland (across the street from McNally's Irish Pub and and new A16 pizzeria). Open Tuesday-Sunday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations are available through Open Table here. Check out Pucquio's menu here. See more about Allpa Culinaria here.

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