Cold Octopus on a Hot Day at Los Tapatios

There's nothing like cold octopus on a hot day, so I ordered the Ceviche Acapulco (Shrimp and Octopus, $10.95) at Los Tapatios, 10 Main St., West Orange, on my first visit. The appetizer was tangy and cooling, chewy as octopus should be, and a fine beginning to a meal marked by tongue, beans and tortillas.

Los Tapatios means those who come from Guadalajara, which is located on the western side of Mexico. The area was described by Gourmet Magazine as Mexico's "Forgotten Food Capital," and tortas, sandwiches, are a cuisine associated with the region. Los Tapatios offers five types of tortas; I found the savory Carne Adobada, or Seasoned Steak, satisfying and filling. All are priced at $7.25.

I was, however, eager to try dishes that might appeal to a more casual fan of Mexican food. I ordered shrimp fajitas ($14.95), chicken quesadillas ($8.50 on the appetizer menu) and steak tacos ($2.25 each).

While I waited, I studied the restaurant. Some dozen tables fill the space, and a fish tank and television playing telenovelas compete for attention at the rear. Because Los Tapatios also is a bar, separated by a swinging door, diners can order a full range of refreshments to cool off from the spicy pico de gallo that is served with tortilla chips as diners wait. The chips were, well, chips. The pico de gallo, though, was tasty, with hunks of onion and fresh cilantro.

I found the same was true of the tacos, which had hunks of beef, cilantro and chopped onion slid into tortillas. Tacos can be ordered singly, though the minimum takeout order is three of a kind.

The shrimp fajitas had the expected onion and peppers, but these came in a red sauce in which they had been simmered. This worked, though a more robust beef or cut of chicken might have been my better choice, as the shrimp were nearly overwhelmed. The chicken quesadilla worked, as well, as it wasn't greasy and was fairly tasty.

What interested me, though, was the tongue taco ($2.50 each), which was chewy and just this side of charred. For those who enjoy tongue, it's a treat. For those who don't order tongue, call it "Lengua," and give it a try.

The Pollo al Chef ($12.95) chicken, onions, garlic, cheese and tomato sauce, was also a hit. It made for a satisfying meal, though nothing was leftover.

Nearly every entrée comes with yellow rice and refried beans, which are often an afterthought both with chefs and diners. However, Los Tapatios serves beans that are worth a second taste, and then a third. The beans have texture and seasoning that set them apart from others I've had.

Likewise, the guacamole at Los Tapatios, which comes with several dishes or as a separate appetizer ($7), is worth the trip. It's chunky and rich with cilantro and tomato hunks in every bite. I put aside the proferred chips and slathered it on a corn tortilla. While the tortillas are not made on the premises, they are fresh and tasty.

Perhaps because there was both guacamole and beans on the plate, my favorite dish was the humble Chicken Flautas ($11.95) filled and fried corn tortillas. I planned to sample a flauta, then found that the dark meat chicken wrapped in crunchy tortilla was hard to put down. I ate three, and wouldn't say no to another, especially in combination with guacamole and beans.

Los Tapatios is casual and offers both dine-in and what appears to be a brisk take-out business. I experimented with taking food to go and found that my orders traveled well and were easy to reheat. The menu notes that vegetarian options are available, a necessary caution, as the menu is skewed heavily towards carnivores. (Bistec Acapulco, for example, is steak topped with bacon for $12.95)

Besides a full bar, the restaurant offers soft drinks and Mexican sodas. Coffee and tea are available. The dessert menu includes a sweet chimichanga, a tortilla and ice cream combo that I've never seen in Mexico, Pan de Tres Leches (Pound Cake), Flan, (all $3) and ice cream ($2.50).

Overall, Los Tapatios is a good dining option to have in your rotation. The prices seem fair, though not cheap, with Red Snapper topping the chart at $16.95. And until I learn to cook my own octopus, I expect to be back at Los Tapatios on the next hot day that calls for cold pulpo.

Los Tapatios

10 Main St.

West Orange

(973) 736-8869

(973) 736-1120 fax

Mon, closed; Tue - Sun, noon - 9:30 p.m.

Take out and dine In

Credit cards accepted