Houston Restaurant Makes Eater's 2016 Best in America List

HOUSTON, TX — Bill Addison travels a lot, and he eats all the time. I trust his palate, and his judgment when it comes to food. He writes for Eater, and this week released his annual Best Restaurants in America list, a roster of the "38 restaurants that defined dining" this year. That Dan Barber's Blue Hill at Stone Barns tops the list is further evidence of Addison's taste.

His lineup includes one Houston restaurant, Hugo's, and it is in no way out of place. I'm a big fan of the Tracy Lee Vaught/Hugo Ortega team (they also own Caracol, Prego, and Backstreet Cafe, all fine eateries), and while I don't manage to spend as much time at one of their tables as I'd like to, every time I do so I am impressed. At Hugo's, one can enjoy traditional and authentic Mexican cuisine, including ceviche, outstanding moles, cochinita pibil, and cabrito. And yes, you can also order chapulines; at Hugo's, the grasshoppers are pan-sautéed and served with guacamole, tortillas, and chipotle tomatillo salsa.

"Being named to Eater’s top 38 in the nation was exciting for our team," Vaught told me. "The employees were immensely proud. We will all work extra hard to be worthy of this accolade. Hugo’s is close to our heart, and it will be turning 15 years old in the coming year. Time has flown by."

Addison includes this line about Hugo's in his rundown: "Nothing better kicks off a meal than the starter of lechon — achiote-braised suckling pig nestled in a banana leaf and topped with cracklings. It comes with habanero salsa that stings the lips and small corn tortillas that smell of earth and warmth." I concur, and have happily ordered the dish on several occasions. Try it if you have not.

In addition to Hugo's, Garcia's Mexican Restaurant, located in San Antonio, and Austin's Franklin Barbecue round out Addison's Texas contingent.

Other restaurants on Addison's 2016 list include Alinea, Cosme, The Willows Inn, Husk Nashville, and Highlands Bar & Grill ... no slouches here.

— Image of Tracy Lee Vaught and Hugo Ortega courtesy Paula Murphy
— Image of chapulines at Hugo's courtesyflickr/T.Tseng