Travel: An Autumn Adventure in New York’s Hudson Valley

By Nicole Pensiero

It was time for our annual Upstate New York trip: a visit to the Hudson Valley and Catskills region – but this time, we were eager to enjoy some “leaf peeping” in the fall.

And while we enjoyed truly summer-like weather during our three October days, the autumn leaves were beginning to blaze – the further north we traveled, the more colorful it was.

While the East side of the Hudson Valley is home to many amazing attractions – including Hyde Park and the Culinary Institute of America – the West side is far more rural, and home to the famed Catskill Mountains. For the past seven years, it’s been our go-to place for a three-night getaway.

We found fantastic lodging for our autumn vacation via Airbnb – not realizing that our spacious four-bedroom rental in Saugerties was only minutes away from the amazing art installation known as Opus 40. (And we were also less than 10 minutes away from the famous and very secluded house known as “Big Pink,” where Bob Dylan and The Band recorded incredible music in 1967).

We began our Fall 2025 road trip with a stop at a favorite place for lunch and shopping: historic Jones Farm in Cornwall, NY. Located in Orange County NY, it was only a two-hour drive from South Jersey. In the same family since 1914, Jones Farm is a great place to enjoy a homecooked lunch and yummy baked goods.

Our rental home in Ulster County – located between the downtowns of Saugerties and Woodstock -- proved the perfect place to set off on our daily adventures and return back to at the end of each day.

Here are some suggestions for things to do in the Catskills if you visit:

Take in Nature: There are plenty of ways to enjoy “the great outdoors” in this special part of New York State. We especially enjoyed a 90-minute cruise along the Hudson River from Kingston, aboard the Rip Van Winkle II. Hudson River Cruises – which runs from the spring through the end of October – offers an array of different cruises that feature interesting commentary. We loved seeing two of the region’s most historic lighthouses: the 1913 Rondout Lighthouse and the Esopus Meadows Lighthouse, built in 1839 and the only remaining wooden lighthouse on the Hudson River.

Peddling through eight miles of amazing scenery via Rail Explorers, based in Phoenicia, NY, is another fun experience that offers lovely views of the Catskills natural beauty. (Rail Explorers runs from April through October).

The 1.5 mile Windham Path in Greene County offers impressive vistas of the mountains, amid pristine streams and wooded ravines, while the Ashokan Rail Trail, in Ulster County, is an 11-mile recreational trail that runs along the scenic Ashokan Reservoir. And if you want some history with your exercise, enjoy a stroll through the marshes to reach the historic Saugerties Lighthouse, built in 1869.

Further north, Kaaterskill Falls, a 260-foot, two-tiered waterfall – taller than Niagara Falls – has been the inspiration for many paintings, including one by the region’s most famous artist, Thomas Cole (1801-1848). Kaaterskill Falls has various viewing platforms and hiking trails. During fall foliage season, it’s especially dazzling. Be sure to stop at the nearby Circle W Market for a bite to eat.

Enjoy the Arts: A visit to Opus 40 – a nonprofit sculpture park created by pioneering artist Harvey Fite -- defies easy description. That this unique art installation was created by one man, Fite, makes it even more astonishing. Further north, the Thomas Cole National Historic Site in Catskill, NY, is both educational and enjoyable. And if you’re looking for something that’s Instagram-ready, check out the kitschy, sci-fi metal sculptures outside of Fabulous Furniture, created by live-edge wood craftsman Steve Heller.

Shop ‘til You Drop: Don’t miss out on trendy Woodstock, always teeming with tourists eager to wander through its fun boutiques and hip cafes. Side note: while Woodstock’s name is synonymous with the massive music 1969 festival, that event was held on a farm nearly 40 miles away, in Bethel, NY, which now houses the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts.

Downtown Saugerties, meanwhile, has a bustling shopping district that includes the popular, independently owned Inquiring Minds Bookstore & Cafe. There you’ll find a massive array of books, as well as a music section and a little space to enjoy a cappuccino.

Enjoy Good Food: There are countless great places to enjoy food and drink throughout the Catskills.

Some of our favorites include Saugerties’ Miss Lucy’s Kitchen, a rustic café that offers delicious lunch and dinner options, as well as fantastic homemade desserts – the Tres Leches cake was out of this world.

Then there’s the popular Phoenicia Diner – great for a celebratory meal after experiencing Rail Explorers -- which, despite its down-home vibe and reasonable prices, is basically gourmet diner food. (Enjoy a vanilla bourbon milkshake!).

We also enjoyed a great meal at The Dutch, a popular ale house in Saugerties that featured a live music duo on the Friday night we visited. Along with the friendly vibe, we savored the shrimp and grits!

On our final night, we had a terrific meal at Frank Guido’s Little Italy in historic Kingston, the county seat of Ulster County. The pasta dishes were exquisite – especially the linguine and Alfredo sauce – and the whipped ricotta cheese and honey appetizer was a memory-maker.

Hit a Few Fun Spots on the Drive Home: There’s plenty to see on the ride back to the Garden State. On this trip, we became first-time visitors to the charming town of New Paltz, which has a lovely shopping hub at the Water Street Market and along its Main Street. I especially loved the eclectic boutique called Cocoon.

About 20 minutes from New Paltz is The Walkway Over the Hudson, the world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge. Accessible from either side of the river, this former 1880s railroad bridge offers a sweeping view of the Hudson River and its surrounding towns, drawing more than 600,000 visitors annually. Note: dogs are welcome.

About 35 minutes south, in Orange County, NY, you’ll find the Storm King Art Center, a 500-acre sculpture park that melds art and nature with more than 100 outdoor sculptures.

This is truly a magical part of New York State to visit, with endless things to see and do. I can’t wait to return.

For more information about the Hudson Valley, visit www.travelhudsonvalley.com. For the Catskill Mountains, go to www.visitthecatskills.com

Nicole Pensiero is a South Jersey-based writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association.