Lox Him Up: His Google Contract Ended, So North Jersey Dad's Starting Jewish Deli

NORTH JERSEY — Jason Stahl only has to wander two blocks from his Jersey City Heights home to gaze out at the tall buildings of Manhattan, with its famous Jewish delis. But despite the proximity of Stahl's new hometown of Jersey City — and his former hometown of Hoboken — to New York City, neither of those Jersey towns has a traditional Jewish deli.

Stahl, 44, wants to change that, particularly by fusing different cultures and adding new twists to Old World food. Ever hear of tiramisu made with matzah? He's done that.

Stahl is a bit too young to remember the heyday of Jewish delis in New York City, but old enough to recall the taste of the half-sour pickles, overstuffed sandwiches, and baked treats his family in Staten Island served during Jewish holidays.

Inspired by his memories and wife's two decades of restaurant experience — and her own Italian roots — the pair are trying their hand at a new business focused on food.

'Is There Any Better Combo?'

Just before the pandemic, Stahl and wife Theresa Gambacorta decided to start Hank Schwartz’s Delicatessen & Appetizing in Jersey City Heights. They began delivering a year and a half ago.

While Stahl and Gambacorta haven't rented a storefront yet (they're working on it), they've begun by creating the food in a ghost kitchen and bringing it to farmer's markets, other restaurants, and homes, with new ideas for Jewish holidays, such as the upcoming Purim this week.

Their Jewish and Italian roots have served as a springboard for new recipes.

"Is there any better combo when it comes to food?" Stahl asked.

Who is Hank Schwartz? He's merely a character created by Stahl and his wife.

Professionally, Stahl is a freelance writer, as well as an editor at an online publication for Harry & David. It was when one of his freelance contracts — with Google — ended in 2019 that the couple broached the idea for new business.

"In March 2019, my wife and I facetiously brought up the idea of opening a Jewish deli in our neighborhood," Stahl told Patch, "being that I'm Jewish, so it's my birthright, right? It didn't sound too far-fetched. My wife had spent over two decades in the New York City hospitality industry, and we are both authors and storytellers, understand food, and have a strong POV when it comes to cooking."

Two months after Stahl and Gambacorta tossed around the idea, "A light bulb went off," he said. "What if we really did open a Jewish deli in Jersey City Heights? After years of bouncing from publisher to publisher, freelancing and going on and off unemployment, I took this latest news [about Google] as a sign."

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Jersey City's various neighborhoods are bustling with new developments and restaurants, and last year, Food & Wine Magazine named Jersey City one of the country's 11 "next great food cities." READ MORE: One Of Top Foodie Towns In U.S. Is Jersey City, National Magazine Says

So it seemed the right place to start.

"The Jewish deli, despite only about 300 left in the United States, has actually had a resurgence," Stahl said, "thanks to the familiarity and comfort the food has. It's about delicious food, yes, but it is more so about what that food does for people; it brings them together, from all backgrounds."

Evolution Of The Jewish Deli

It's not unusual these days for entrepreneurs to marry various cultures when opening a deli.

The one Jewish-style deli that opened recently in Hudson County, Pastrami House in Hoboken, describes itself as "Kosher style" but doesn't focus exclusively on Jewish food, offering sandwiches including Taylor ham. Similarly, Stahl's business brings in other cultures.

"The delis that are opening nowadays — and for the past five-plus years — have reinterpreted what a Jewish deli is," Stahl said. "Institutions like Katz's, Carnegie, Canter's (which originated in Jersey City) and other traditional delis and there piled-high sandwiches will always be a draw, but customers' changing eating habits and the importance of eating locally has altered the landscape for menus to offer more thoughtful choices."

Stahl and his wife talk often about food. Gambacorta is currently the maitre d' at Corto, a popular Italian restaurant in the Heights.

Stahl "grew up eating 'deli' " he explained. "So, I started writing a business plan in summer 2019; a chef friend who I tailgate with came on board to help develop a menu."

The pandemic slowed the process, but they began delivering in 2021, as well as selling items at Riverview Farmer's Market — at a park that provides views of both Hoboken and Manhattan.

The mission of Hank Schwartz's is to "build community by spreading love and schmears, while filling hearts and bellies in Jersey City, and throughout Hudson County ... in a setting that emanates old-world warmth."

Aleppo Pepper In Your Matzah?

Stahl has gotten orders from as far as Philadelphia and Boston. He still wants to open a physical deli and is looking for investors.

"Since we're a ghost kitchen, we mostly do delivery, and nine out of 10 orders are from Jersey City," he said, "though we also get orders from Hoboken, and once in a while an order from Weehawken .. with requests from fans as far away as Philadelphia and Boston."

Among the draws are Hank's twists on traditional food. For Passover 2021, he says, they made "three types of chocolate-covered matzo (plain with sea salt, rose petals, Aleppo pepper). We also took orders for Italian-style chopped liver, including a vegan version where we substitute liver for mushrooms. In the summer, we started selling our pickled cucumbers (dill and spicy) and Riverview Wines & Spirits and at the Riverview Farmer's Market."

They also have offered lox, BBQ rub pastrami, and even lox candy.

"[We] added matzo tiramisu for Passover," he said. "Sold the crispiest potato latkes for Hanukkah. We also had a pop-up at The Cliff [a Heights restaurant], which is something we're looking to do more of."

"Now, in 2023, we started offering something different or new each week beginning in February," he noted. "Today's offering was our lox on a homemade Jerusalem bagel, something that you cannot find at your bagel shop or even bakery. We're the only folks making them. Our next offering ... is herring with Granny Smith apple charoset on toasted baguette from Rizzo Bakery [in Jersey City] — we're all about supporting other local businesses."

Local Impact

The ingredients are sourced locally, Stahl said. His wife makes the Jerusalem bagels herself.

Meanwhile, he's got a vivid vision for the restaurant he wants to open.

"In my mind, it's already open," he said. "I can envision us being on a corner close to Palisade Avenue in The Heights. You'll walk in and be welcomed to our little kibbutz. Have a seat at our counter and order from a menu that will be inspired from the entire diaspora, and my childhood: sabich sandwich, borscht mocktails, homemade pappardelle noodle kugel, last night's roasted chicken, Mammy's sweet potato pudding, and our cornerstone sandwiches."

The Syracuse University graduate noted, "Our most popular items are our pickled cucumbers, which have been sold at the Riverview Farmers Market and Riverview Wines, both in JC Heights. They come in dill and spicy. All the comments have been positive, And we have quite a neighborhood following. I'm always asked when we're opening, so that's very reassuring about our future."

It Might Help Your Love Life

But aside from bringing back memories of Bubbe and Zayde, will the food spice up your romance?

"Rumor has it, a jar of our spicy peppers (jalapeno peppers and Aleppo pepper) added some kick to one couple's marriage," Stahl claimed. "And our holiday offerings for Passover always sell out, so be on the lookout for that announcement some time in late March."

Find out more about Hank Schwartz's Deli here. But first, if you have business or restaurant news in North Jersey, hurry and tell Patch. What's taking so long? You never call. You never write.