NJ Teen Chef Is Cooking Up A Buzz At Millburn, Westfield Restaurants

MILLBURN, NJ — Ask Matthew Cheung to describe the perfect bowl of ramen and the young chef-on-the-rise begins to wax poetic, his love for cooking enthusiastic and ebullient – like the colorful ingredients that appear in his culinary creations.

“For me, the perfect ramen bowl starts with a flavorful broth that isn’t too rich or oily, which lets you enjoy the ramen without a lingering heaviness,” the 17-year-old chef de cuisine of Sum Ramen in New Jersey instructs.

“I think the best ramen has noodles that are still slightly firm,” Cheung continues. “And of course, for the toppings, I like soft chashu pork, scallions, wood ear mushrooms for the crunch, and bean sprouts. I do enjoy spice too, so I use hot chili oil on the side to adjust to my taste.”

Cheung would know. For the past few years, he’s been getting a hands-on taste of what it’s like to run a successful restaurant as he helms Sum Ramen’s two locations in Millburn and Westfield.

Currently a senior at Millburn High School, Cheung now spends many of his Fridays and Saturdays working while keeping up with a schedule full of AP classes during the week, and also pursuing other passions like guitar and volleyball. He gets support at the restaurant from his family – the proprietors of Sakura Japanese Restaurant in Millburn – particularly his mother, Sum Yueng, a culinary artist who was taught by Michelin star-rated chefs.

Although his mom has final say over the menu, most of the items you’ll find at Sum Ramen bear Cheung’s signature: Dan-Dan Mazeman (a chilled and brothless ramen offspring loaded with spicy ground pork, fried lotus root and other mouth-watering ingredients) … Zaru Soba (cold buckwheat soba noodles with mentsuyu dipping sauce) … coffee-rubbed steak … and Sum Ramen’s house-made broth, which is served piping-hot in stone bowls.

When asked to recall the first time that he realized he had a talent for cooking, Cheung told Patch that he began his culinary journey when he was about 10. But Cheung didn’t realize that he was “good” in the kitchen until he’d gone through some serious trial and error.

“So I would say that I realized I was good at cooking once I got a grasp of what I liked to cook –and how to cook intuitively – at around age 13,” he said.

A true student of the culinary arts, Cheung – a fan of “trying new things” – said he tries to pick up techniques from many different cultures. But there’s a special place in his heart (and menu) for Asian cuisine like Chinese, Korean and Japanese food.

Cheung, who also does social media work for the restaurants, has been focusing more on the business side of the industry lately, which his family has embraced and encouraged. As he sends out his college applications, the Essex County teen is planning to study business, which he hopes to put to work expanding Sum Ramen alongside his brother, Alex.

“Depending on what happens after college, I might find myself in other business ventures, but it definitely would include restaurants or some food aspect,” Cheung said.

But no matter where he ends up – or what he ends up doing for a living – the joy of cooking will remain an important way for this ambitious North Jersey teen to connect with his loved ones.

“Being able to cook made me feel more independent, and there’s a sense of satisfaction that comes from people eating my food,” Cheung said. “So on holidays like Thanksgiving, I take a large role in making the food along with my mom.”

Learn more about Sum Ramen’s Millburn location at 188 Essex Street or Westfield location at 9 Elm Street here.

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