Where You Should Eat Now: Mamma Franca In Secaucus

SECAUCUS, NJ — If you know where the "in" crowd is eating in Secaucus, it's inside one of the town's hotels — Mamma Franca inside Harmony Suites.

Mamma Franca is Secaucus' hottest new restaurant, and one you ought to be eating at: It serves made-from-scratch Italian dishes in an extremely elegant setting in the lobby of the Harmony Suites.

Most Secaucus residents may not even be aware the restaurant exists, as it's only been open for the past three weeks. A liquor license is in the process of being obtained; for now it's BYOB and owner Luigi Forte welcomes you to bring a bottle of wine and enjoy.

For starters, the food is delicious. Secaucus' many Italian-American residents will immediately recognize the fare as classic Italian: Nothing overly fancy or complicated. No bells or whistles. But the dishes will immediately make one exclaim "this is how my grandmother used to make it!" or better yet, transport diners to actually being in Italy.

That may have something to do with the fact that Forte is from Italy, hailing from a little village about one hour east of Rome, in the mountainous Abruzzo region.

He makes his gnocchi and focaccia in house; the result is the lightest gnocchi I have ever tasted, even when served in a rich Gorgonzola cream sauce. The homemade focaccia is served warm, crusty on the outside and chewy and herbaceous in the middle.

It is so tasty it would be the focus on an entire meal in an American restaurant, but Forte gives it away for free at the start of your meal, along with marinated eggplant.

"Everything on the menu is good," he says when asked (he's not bragging), but top-ranked customer favors are baked clams, lasagna, spaghetti Bolognese, salmon, branzino, penne Boscaiola (a pasta dish from his native Abruzzo made with sausage, mushrooms and green peas in a white creamy sauce) and stracotto al Montepulciano, a braised beef entree. (Full disclosure: We've only tried the first two dishes, but you're making a mistake if at least one person in your party doesn't order the lasagna).

The restaurant is named after his mother "Mamma Franca," who he said is back in Italy right now "probably cooking dinner for my father."

"My philosophy is the one she raised us with: Good food should never be a luxury. You do the best you can with the ingredients you have available," he said. "We always ate so well growing up. And don't rush the cooking: Give dishes time to let the flavor come out of the herbs."

Word is getting out about Mamma Franca:

"With Lorenzo's closing last year, there are just so few Italian restaurants in Secaucus, or any restaurants for that matter," said Allison Perricone, dining there Friday night with her sister.

"It's just so good to have another option in Secaucus," said Sarah Perricone.

The two raved about the fried calamari, which they said was very light.

You will dine in a soaring multi-story hotel lobby, with hanging gardens and a modern waterfall sculpture. It's white tablecloth dining — minus the white tablecloth prices. Entrees are in the $16-$24 range, with the most expensive dish on the menu being the rib-eye steak for $30.

"I want this to be an affordable place for everyone," said Forte. I truly want everyone to come here and enjoy."

Italians are known for being hospitable, and Forte proves the stereotype true: Once he gets the liquor license, he said he plans to offer a classic Italian aperitivo, or Italian cocktail hour. He will serve American and Italian cocktails (think: aperol spritz) and put out free appetizer foods to pick on.

"That's the way we do it in my village in Italy: Aperitivo starts at 6 p.m.-ish; you have a drink and restaurants or bars lay out tables and tables of free food," he said. "Then you eat dinner much later in my country."

Forte serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, as he is the restaurant of the Harmony Suites. While he does enjoy providing travelers in the hotel with a home-cooked meal, Forte says it is Secaucus locals he truly wants to attract.

"Secaucus can be like a seaport, so many people coming and going. But it's the regulars I want to establish a relationship with. I still believe in relationships."

They also serve all the classic Italian desserts: Panna cotta; tiramisu, cannoli, creme brulee, plus lava cake. Try Mamma Franca in Secaucus and let Patch know what you think. Carly.baldwin@patch.com

Mamma Franca: Hours are 11:30-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; Friday 11:30 -11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 4-11 p.m. http://www.mammafrancanj.com/ 455 Plaza Dr, Secaucus, NJ 07094 (201) 361-6682