Malvern Farmer Asks Why Other Meat is so Cheap

If you have an insatiable carnivorous appetite, Canter Hill Farm has a solution for you. You can sink your teeth into sustainable, free-range meats born right in the neighborhood.

The meaty combination is a result of owner Wayne Grabe’s South African roots. Now, he and his wife live in Malvern raising animals and animal products at their own Canter Hill Farm on Valley Hill Road since 2008. While working two full-time jobs and raising three children, the duo also fosters a separate assembly of livestock: grass-fed lamb, pastured poultry, duck, guinea hen and ground turkey.

Around Thanksgiving, the Canter Hill heritage turkey priced at $9 per pound  may seem less attractive than the freebie at the supermarket. While many farmers can grow a 25 pound turkey for the holidays beginning in July, Canter Hill raises ground turkeys for the holidays beginning in April. But the additional labor and attention, combined with the all-natural growth, makes the price tag worth it, Jeannette Grabe said.

Grabe discovered the spiked prices when she bought her first steer before her farm was old enough to breed its own animals.

“I asked, ‘Why is this so expensive?’ And the farmer responded, ‘That’s not the right question - the question is why is the other food so cheap?’” she said. “It was just an eye opener to me.”

No Pesticides, Please

“You should be informed, and then it’s your call. If there’s one thing that’s not happening in the food industry, it’s exposure,” Jeannette Grabe said.

Grabe highlighted that the transparent approach is not a “leftist movement”, acknowledging that buying all-organic foods can easily rack up a grocery bill. She noted that many people subscribe to the notion that growing up on supermarket meats didn’t harm them while unaware of the rise of antibiotic additives that commenced in the 1950s.

The most rewarding aspect of the family farm is serving up “a dinner that’s entirely your own stuff.” On an average Wednesday evening, the Grabes feast upon homegrown lamb chops, green beans and potatoes from their backyard ― with the exception of a gooey mozzarella cheese topping.

Kid-Friendly Meals Trigger Family Business

Health issues with the Grabes’ daughter initially sparked their interest in refined meat eating. They became aware of the correlation between genetically modified foods, altered with antibiotics, pesticides and fertilizers and the rise of issues like ADHD, autism, allergies and premature maturing.

“The more I was reading, the more the stuff was linked back to food,” Grabe said.

Grabe noted that consuming meat chock full of antibiotics and other substances reduces the body’s ability to fight disease and allergies, leading to subsequent additional medication.

“He said, 'Let’s get 2,000 to 3,000 hectares, which translates to 8,000 to 9,000 acres.' I said, ‘With what gold pile?’” Grabe recalled.

The couple found the 10-acre farm in Malvern, a suitable property close enough to both of their jobs. The centuries-old parcel contained a barn and old schoolhouse built in 1809, and a gorgeous farmhouse built in 1819.

The Grabes purchased animals at first to feed themselves, which caught the attention of many prospective buyers. Canter Hill first participated in the Malvern Farmers Market, and still does not ship or offer products online. This season, the Grabes hope to finally “break even” as Wayne began working as a full-time farmer in May, and they participate in four local markets. They also add a pop of color to their stand with “plain vanilla stuff” such as heritage, untreated heirloom tomatoes, onions, potatoes, cucumber and zucchini.

Canter Hill faces natural obstacles along the way, such as a fox ravaging 50 to 100 chickens in a 20-minute night raid, an obstructed gate freeing all of the sheep or snowfall barraging the turkey coop. But they make the small adjustments by buying guardian dogs, sleeping with the windows open and factoring losses into their numbers.