Simma's Changes Hands After Nearly 30 Years in the Family

Here's a measure of just how well-known and treasured is Simma's Bakery in Wauwatosa: When Mark Carollo was in the process of buying the business over the past three months, nearly everyone involved in the transaction asked him the same question.

"You're not going to change anything, are you?"

Carollo is not, so don't worry.

"It was funny, I had bankers and city clerks asking me," Carollo said. "Always, 'Are you going to change it? Tell me you're not going to change it.'

"And I always said, 'Of course not. Why would I change something that's perfect?'

"That's why I'm buying it, for what it is."

Founded in 1982 by Simma Yundov, Simma's, at 817 N. 68th St., is predictably ranked as the No. 1 bakery in metro Milwaukee year after year and is consistently named one of the Top 25 bakeries in the nation. As nearly everyone in Tosa and far beyond knows, Simma's is famous for its chocolate-covered cheesecakes, monumental wedding cakes, morning buns and much more that is rich and sweet.

Carollo, the owner of Croissant Etc. in Greendale, said he was looking to expand from his business as a wholesale baker of nationally distributed frozen dough and baked croissants and was looking for a retail bakery.

"I was looking to grow my business, and after I found Simma's, I stopped looking," Carollo said. "If I can buy a business that is No. 1, why would I settle for less?

"I figure, 'Let's start out on top and keep it on top."

Irina Yundov has owned Simma's since her mother's death 20 years ago, and she clearly still loves the namesake business.

"I felt like after 20 years it was time to pass on the torch to somebody who would be really passionate about this already spectacular place – and take it to the next level.

"On the journey, I knew I had to find the absolutely perfect person. I found that in Mark."

Yundov said that if she hadn't soon come across a buyer who satisfied her that the Simma's name and reputation would be upheld, she would have waited.

"I'd have been happy to have stayed in a few more years," she said.

In fact, she's not walking right out the door now.

"I'm going to stay around about a year to make sure everything is going smoothly," Yundov said.

Even when she is ready to finally cut the last ties, Yundov will still be available if needed. She said she has no plans to leave Milwaukee and will become involved in managing properties that she and her husband own.

Carollo said he was so convinced of the perfection of Simma's as it is, he is unlikely even to put his own products there.

"They already have great croissants here," he said. "If there is something that can add to what's here, I might do that. But I'm sure not going to replace anything."