Staying Power: Marzullo's Restaurant Marks Big Anniversary

When asked about running for the last 30 years, owner Raffaele Marzullo quips that, during the surging economy of the 1980s, times were so good "you didn't know what pocket to put your money in next."

With the recent recession, it's a different story today.

"Now you can't even find a pocket," he says, with an array of homemade biscotti laid out in front of him.

Marzullo concedes that the last 30 years haven't been easy—but that he wouldn't dream of doing anything else.

"We have many loyal customers. But the economy has been rough. People who used to come here two or three time a week now come in one or two times a month," he said. "There's been an over-infusion of restaurants in Montclair. They usually stay open only a year but they still pull people away."

It was in 1982 that Marzullo and his brother first came upon the Grove Street address that was, at the time, a grocery store that had been condemned by the town's health department.

Raffaele Marzullo, then 23, and his brother Mimmo, 18 and still in high school, saw promise in the rundown site and purchased the property for $6,000.

"Originally it was a specialty store but then we opened a cafe," said Marzullo, who moved with his family from Italy to Montclair in 1969.

In time, the cafe was transformed into a formal dining room and an adjacent TV repair shop was taken over and turned into a private party area spacious enough to accommodate more than 50 people.

Maria (Mamma) Marzullo and sister Marialena took control of what was initially a closet-sized kitchen and several years of 80-hour work weeks ensued.

The hard work paid off. Soon friends were telling friends the food tasted just like Grandma used to make. A legion of fans began clamoring for the homemade mozzarella, pasta dishes, overstuffed sandwiches, dinners to go, and Mamma Marzullo’s famous chicken soup. (The perfectly cooked Chilean sea bass is particularly well known.) Soon, customers were waiting in line just to get in the door.

But a devastating blow came in 2001 when an electrical fire that started in the basement gutted the deli. The restaurant was closed for 18 months, finally re-opening again in July 2002—bigger and better than before.

"The time of the fire was a very very hard time for the family," Marzullo said. "It crippled us for 18 months. But when we opened again our loyal customers came back."

To reward that loyalty, Marzullo's began offering Recession Relief Half Price Pasta on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays.

"And our portions are not small no matter what the price so you will always take some home," he said.

Today, there is still the specialty deli counter that boasts everything from pasta salads to focaccia. The left part of Marzullo's is still the "casual-noisy" side while the right side—or the dining room—guarantees a bit of quiet. The dessert bar separating the two offers gelato, cakes, cookies, and cannolis filled to order.

Evidence of Marzullo's continued confidence in his business and its future: the restaurant's kitchen.

"If an owner will take you into the kitchen then you know they have nothing to hide," said Marzullo, as he took this Montclair Patch editor into the kitchen. "I will proudly take you into my kitchen, any time."

Following the tour, Montclair Patch asked Marzullo a few questions... here they are:

Q) Obviously Marzullo's is your favorite place. But are there other restaurants you like in Montclair when you are tired of Italian?

A) My mother's house is my favorite place to go for food. But after that I would have to say  I like the Neopolitan appetizer there. The owner at Dai Kichi comes here for the chicken soup.

Q) What are your most popular dishes at Marzullo's?

A) Our fish here is fresh six days a week. We do great pizzas. We used to have a bumper sticker that said "Marzullo's Makes A Nice Sandwich" and we do. If we make a sub sandwich for you that is under a pound you will get it for free. We have a lot of signature dishes and they are all good. Our Shrimp Marzullo is a takeoff of shrimp scampi but ours has our homemade fettuccini.

Q) What's your favorite dish?

A) I like the rib-eye with melted gorgonzola cheese on it.

Q) Is there something people might not know about Marzullo's?

A) We have a dessert bar here. I make all the cheesecakes and the biscotti and the tiramisu. We have a ricotta cheesecake that will knock your socks off. I also make a sugar free cheesecake that is good.

Q) What's your busiest night here?

A) Saturdays are busy but sometimes you can come here on Monday or Tuesday and it's tough to get a table. We take reservations for six or more. And we have outside seating. Up to 40 people can be seated outside.

Q) Have you ever had any celebrities come in?

A) Olympia Dukakis and her husband have been in. We've catered for the New Jersey Devils. Bishop [Joseph] Francis came in. He was one of the first black bishops.

So stop by and wish Marzullo's a Happy 30th Anniversary. After sampling the food, and chatting with the owner, you won't be disappointed. Have you been to Marzullo's? What did you think? Let us know in the comments section below.

Marzullo's

117 Grove Street

Montclair 

973-744-6663

www.marzullos.com