When Women Wore Pants: Princeton U. Exhibition Exposes 19th-Century Fashion Fears

PRINCETON, NJ - The Seeley G. Mudd Manuscript Library at Princeton University will be showcasing an exhibit titled, "Fashion, Feminism, and Fear: Clothing and Power in the 19th Century."

The exhibition explores how late 19th-century society reacted to women's evolving dress codes. Curated by April C. Armstrong '15 and Emma Paradies, both Library Collections Specialists in Special Collections, the show examines cartoons and satirical illustrations from the era when the "New Woman" began challenging conventions by wearing pants, tailored jackets, and sportswear while entering previously male-dominated domains.

The exhibition centers on works from 1895-1896, primarily featuring cartoons by William H. Walker (1871-1938), who served as the leading editorial cartoonist for the influential magazine Life from 1894 to 1922.

Walker's fashion-themed political cartoons captured the cultural unease surrounding women's changing roles, often suggesting through visual mockery that women were unsuited for their newfound freedoms.

The exhibition's relevance extends beyond historical curiosity, drawing connections to contemporary struggles over gender expression and appearance-based social pressures. Modern advertising examples included in the display highlight how these themes persist today.

Visitors can attend a public opening with the curators on Tuesday, Sept. 16, from noon to 2:00 p.m., which will feature hands-on items alongside the traditional display cases. An interdisciplinary symposium exploring related themes is planned for October 17 (details at library.princeton.edu/fashion-feminism-fear-symposium).

The exhibition runs through April 2026 at Mudd Manuscript Library, 65 Olden Street. Open to the public during regular library hours—check the website for current schedules.

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