New Astoria Bakery, Cafe Combines Food And Fables

ASTORIA, QUEENS — For Georgia Koutsoupakis, the list of things to avoid when she opened her own Astoria bakery was as important as what to prioritize.

"One of the reasons why I opened up my own place [is] people aren’t treated well in the kitchen," said Koutsoupakis, a seven-year veteran of the city's restaurant industry who on Thursday opened the doors to Elevenses, her bakery and cafe on 35th Avenue and 31st Street.

"Not given a break, not given water, not given food. You could be working 10 hours and you’re eating over a garbage can," she said of her previous jobs. "You’re not paid well, you’re not treated well."

At Elevenses, Koutsoupakis wanted to "do the opposite" — her half dozen employees are paid a living wage, ingredients are sourced from local farmers and purchased at the Union Square Greenmarket, and pastries are priced as affordably as possible to make the shop accessible.

"Times are not easy for anyone, so we want to accommodate everyone we can," Koutsoupakis told Patch on Friday.

Then, of course, there's the food itself. Offerings will include croissants, egg sandwiches, cookies, brownies, macarons, loaves of bread, cardamon buns and hand pies — many of which can be made vegan. More unique items include almond croissants made with Greek bougatsa cream; Greek-style koulouri breads; and kouign amann, a sort of inverted croissant made with caramelized sugar to produce a crunchy texture.

Coffee beans come from Til Death, a Brooklyn-based roaster whose owners Koutsoupakis befriended at a previous restaurant job, while teas come from Bellocq in Greenpoint. Syrups for drinks like chai, mocha and London Fog lattes are all made in-house.

A lifelong Astoria resident, Koutsoupakis opened the doors to Elevenses this week after a drawn-out, two-year wait exacerbated by the city's delays in issuing permits. Elevenses is part of World Artisan Market, the seven-restaurant complex gradually opening in a converted warehouse along 31st Street.

A self-described "big nerd," Koutsoupakis drew her cafe's name from the mid-morning meal eaten by Hobbits in the Lord of The Rings universe.

"It’s basically a time of day when you have something small to eat and something small to drink," she said. References to the fantasy franchise can be found around the cafe, including a clock labeled with each of the seven daily meals eaten by hungry Hobbits.

Elevenses was serving only drinks when Patch stopped by on Friday, but a recent delivery of food supplies meant that soups, egg sandwiches, cakes and cookies will be available starting on Saturday. Patch sampled an oat-milk cappuccino, which was suitably strong and perfectly foamy.

The long-awaited opening is emotional for Koutsoupakis, whose father died last May while the shop was still under construction.

"I wanted him to see this place," she said. "And I wanted him to be proud of it."

Elevenses is now open at 34-39 31st St., facing 35th Avenue. Its temporary hours are 8 a.m.-4 p.m., with a soft-opening party scheduled for next Friday, Feb. 25, from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Related coverage: Long-Awaited Astoria Food Hall Will Open More Restaurants Soon

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