Jackson Heights Food Truck Lands Glowing New York Times Review

JACKSON HEIGHTS, QUEENS — Jackson Heights food truck Birria-Landia won a glowing, two-star review from celebrated New York Times food critic Pete Wells on Tuesday.

The food truck, which parks at Roosevelt Avenue and 78th Street, specializes in Tijuana-style birria de res, a slowly simmered beef stew served as a taco filling or sandwiched in between tortillas with melted mozzarella, a creation known as a mulita.

"The most talked-about tacos of the year," Wells wrote, "are sold from a white truck that pulls up each afternoon around dusk in front of an auto mechanic's unusually large and well-groomed parking lot."

The birria is also available as a soup, which Wells called "so flavorful and meat-laden it almost overshadows everything else."

Brothers José and Jesús Moreno, natives of the Pueblan town of Coatzingo in Mexico, started the food truck in June after more than a decade working as cooks, according to the Times review.

José, who did stints at renowned New York Italian restaurants Del Posto and Parm, fell in love with Tijuana-style birria de res two years ago in Los Angeles, where he traveled to help open an Eataly location, the Times review said.

Prices range from $2.50 per taco to $6 for a large bowl of birria consomé.

View this post on Instagram

Thanks so much... To all our, birria tacos lovers last night
A post shared by Birria-Landia Tacos (@birrialandianyc) on Nov 16, 2019 at 11:23am PST

Read the full review in The New York Times.