Dispatches: Empanada Store Owner Living American Dream in Lake Ronkonkoma

Roy Pelaez has been making empanadas for over 15 years. As a district manager for Aramark, one of his former employees would sell them at JFK International Airport.

“They were good,” he said, “but I thought this is something I can make even better.”

There’s something about the handheld fried treats that Pelaez, 51, knew would be a big seller. He just didn’t know he’d be losing his job at Aramark over a decade later and the delicious crimped packets of meat and such would be the answer to resurrecting his career.

His trips across the country from Tampa to Toronto as district manager were over. Aramark laid off 300 managers nationwide, adding to the nation’s rising unemployment list at the time in 2009.

He tested selling empanadas out of his Ronkonkoma home last December. It wasn’t your ordinary bake sale batch. He sold 2,000 and suddenly Pelaez was operating on another level, one with Famous Amos and Mrs. Fields floating in his mind.

“I decided to pursue my dream of opening a restaurant. The plan was to do that after I retired from Aramark anyway.”

Pelaez began researching through library books, the Internet and talking with restaurant owners. He asked friends to help with the financing and a year after planning, barely sleeping and worrying about his family’s future, he opened Island Emapanda, Long Island’s only restaurant specializing in empanadas.

“It was very hard,” Pelaez said. “My wife and kids went through some tough times for awhile. I wanted to open the restaurant, but my wife wanted me to go back to the corporate world. We were comfortable and secure.”

Friends cautioned him about opening a restaurant in a down economy, but Pelaez knew he was on to something.

“People travel to Queens just to get empanadas,” he said. “It’s a handy delicious food that people seem to like.”

Starting the business offered the same stress as getting laid off. Pelaez said he was scratching for every dollar, combating many unforeseen costs.

“It was very scary,” he said. “My wife was nervous we wouldn’t get out of debt and get out of being here. I was working 84 hours a week for the first three months, then began to back it off. Now, it’s an awesome feeling and stress has gone way down.”

Tucked in the middle of the Waldbaum’s shopping center on Portion Road in Lake Ronkonkoma – in the same center as Strathmore Bagels - Pelaez’ shop has become an instant staple of the community. Coaches and teachers carry empanadas in the schools, residents of neighboring communities know about the store. They've only been open since the summer, but if you want an empanada, you know where to go.

Island Empanada offers 20 different types, including Asian chicken, chipotle beef or chicken, chicken bacon ranch, Latin shrimp, broccoli and cheese and sweet plantain and mozzarella. Pelaez comes up with all the recipes on his own, and none cost more than $2.95.

They also have no problem with developing new flavors like the pulled pork empanada or Oreo empanada with fluff and vanilla ice cream. Both came from customer feedback cards, which have allowed the community to have their empanada dreams come true.

Pelaez has spent more than 20 years working in the hospitality industry, tending bar and waiting at restaurants for years while still working at Aramark. Coupling his business experience with the restaurant industry has been fruitful for his current situation.

From recruiting, maintaining proper hiring practices and marketing, to policy and procedures and even team building, there is an air of professionalism at Island Empanada.

What’s more is the affection Pelaez has for his family and community. His wife Kathy works at the shop, as do his daughters Danielle and Giselle and brother-in-law Joe.

The store is less than a mile from Sachem High School, where Pelaez graduated from in 1978 and captained the hockey team. He proudly displays his Sachem jersey on the wall at the store with team photos.

Pelaez said they’re hoping to open another store and eventually are leaning towards franchises.

He lives by a quote from Bill Cosby: “Your quest for success has to be greater than your fear of failure.”

“I was hungry to do it,” he said. “That has to be stronger than the fear of failure. It was looming constantly over me. The American dream? I feel like I’m realizing it right now.” 

You can find more articles from this ongoing series, “Dispatches: The Changing American Dream” from across the country at The Huffington Post.