New UES Italian Restaurant Puts Customers' Tastes Above All

UPPER EAST SIDE, NY — The Upper East Side's newest Italian restaurant is something of a step down — literally.

Il Gradino opened Tuesday on Lexington Avenue between East 62nd and 63rd streets. Meaning "the step," it draws its name from the just-below-street-level entrance to the restaurant space, which was formerly occupied by Fig & Olive.

This week's opening fulfills a lifelong dream for owner Diego Argudo, a longtime head captain at nearby Scalinatella. Argudo came to the U.S. from his native Ecuador at age 15, working as a water boy while his father worked as a chef.

Il Gradino's menu includes Italian standards like house-made vegetable ravioli, breaded veal Milanese cutlets, herb-marinated chicken and roasted branzino.

What distinguishes the eatery, however, is its policy of "a piacere," or "to taste" — allowing customers to pick their own preparation styles for the risotto, veal, calamari, lobster, chicken and Dover sole dishes.

Beyond that, if a customer is craving some Italian dish that isn't on Il Gradino's menu, "all they need do is describe it and the chef will accommodate the request," according to a news release from the restaurant.

The restaurant's executive chef is Carlos Inga, previously a sous chef for eight years at San Pietro and Il Mulino, plus a previous stop at Caravaggio.

The 66-seat restaurant has a "refined modern esthetic" inside, including textured wallpapers, a marble fireplace and a Miró-style mural.

Il Gradino is now open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, from noon to 11 p.m., at 808 Lexington Ave. Learn more on its website.