Peri-Peri Good

Nando's Peri-Peri, a fiery-grilled chicken like no other, has planted its flag in the heart of Silver Spring and already has lines out the door. The finger-smacking customers are on the mark, this chicken is good.

Nando's features the distinct heat and flavor of the African Bird's Eye Chili, served with a mix of Portuguese, South African and Mozambiqueain flairs. The chili is in the rub applied to the birds, the sauce they are basted in and applied liberally by one's own hands at the table in any of six distinct sauces. And while it does pack a fiery punch in some cases, it's not overbearingly hot unless the label warns it is. Even my spice-averse dining companion enjoyed dabbling in several of the variations offered.

We arrived early, beating the rush that builds a line out the door by 6:30pm. As Nando's is all about the chicken, it seemed silly to order it in sandwich or salad form. Give us the straight stuff. Besides, we weren't going to have room for a bowl full of lettuce or slices of bread.

Nando's offers its signature chicken either as a (white or dark meat) quarter ($6.95 with one side, $8.85 with two), half ($9.95/$11.85), whole ($15.95 or $22.95 with two large sides) or fire-grilled livers ($6.95/$8.85).

How hot you want that chicken done is the question. Options include plain, lemon and herb, medium, hot and extra hot. Sauces range beyond extra to extra, extra hot (which is dark red, chunky and full of Bird's Eye seeds).

Orders are placed at the counter, and brought to the table by waiters. Customers pick up napkins, utensils and fountain drinks.

We ordered Humus with a Peri-Peri Drizzle ($3.95), Spicy Mixed Olives ($3.75), four chicken quarters each with one side, large fries ($3.95), a side of Perinaise (Peri-Peri mayo) ($.75) and refillable fountain sodas ($1.95/each). The chicken is finished to order on the grill in an open-air kitchen and delivered promptly by an attendant wait staff.

The humus was delicious served with warm pita and a small bottle of hot red sauce to drizzle to your own taste. The olives were tasty, but not on the table by themselves long enough to get eaten.

The fries were crispy outside, tender inside served with little pretence. The Perinaise (barely any kick) was a good accompaniment.

The plain white meat quarter with Portuguese Rice ($6.95) had no extra basting, just the flavor of the chicken, spices and grill. Vibrant, delicious, tender with a slight kick. The best to one of my dining companions, and a perfect palate for Nando's many sauce options. The rice was our least favorite of the side dishes.

Lemon and Herb white meat quarter with Coleslaw ($6.95): very tender, the chicken fully absorbing lemon and herb flavors. Just a hint of spice. The coleslaw was the only cooling element besides our drinks on the table, and was a perfect compliment to all levels of chicken. Fresh, creamy, crisp, even for non-slaw eaters this was good coleslaw.

Medium dark meat quarter with Mashed Potatoes ($6.95): Oh my these mashed potatoes are good. A little garlic, red skins, buttery, creamy, smooth but maintaining texture. Good alone or with any sauce. The chicken was typically tender and wonderful, a small step up from Plain for those looking for a little more kick.

Hot dark meat quarter with Macho Peas ($6.95):  The first chicken with after burn delivered by a tasty, tangy sauce. This chicken was good on its own or with some additional hot, extra or extra, extra hot sauce. The peas where bright and attractive, but the flavor wasn't so "Macho." Still, a good texture.

Nando's offers many salads and desserts as well, but our table had plenty of what it came for, and wasn't interested in the sideshow.

Featuring indoor and outdoor patio seating, Nando's is open Sunday through Thursday, 11:30am to 10pm, and Friday and Saturday from 11:30am to 11pm.  A table of two could eat lavishly for $30.