After 93 Years On LI, Family-Owned Soda Fountain May Shutter

WILLISTON PARK, NY — In Williston Park, Hildebrant's Restaurant has been woven into the fabric of the community with its famous ice cream and cameos in major films, such as Martin Scorsese's Oscar-nominated film "The Irishman."

After 93 years at the same location, the family-owned eatery represented a glimmer of hope for other restaurants on Long Island, where many do not survive past the first year of opening. Indeed, a 1997 article in The New York Times dubbed Hildebrant's an "atypical evergreen."

"In this world of flux, virtually nothing is static, much less permanent, except, perhaps, for Hildebrandt's in Williston Park, the most atypical of Island restaurants," The Times wrote. "Yes, there are still traditional, nostalgic, unapologetically-old-fashioned places like Hildebrandt's in middle America, but few remain in Nassau or Suffolk."

But with more places to eat now, a perception that there are "nicer" places to go, and no dedicated parking spots, even Hildebrandt's, the evergreen that stood the test of time, faced an uphill battle.

"We were struggling," Hunter Acosta, daughter of owner Bryan Acosta, told Patch on Wednesday. "It’s been a tough couple of years if I’m being honest."

When the coronavirus pandemic reached New York, it exacerbated the situation.

The restaurant remained open for takeout during Gov. Andrew Cuomo's statewide stay-home order, but lost an estimated 75 percent of its business. The eatery was "barely making ends meet," Hunter Acosta said.

"We understood [the shutdown was necessary] because we cared about the safety of our customers as well as our employees, but we were also shocked because we knew as a very small business it would massively affect us compared to others," she said.

The eatery resumed indoor dining at half capacity around late May, but Hildebrant's is small. Indeed, the ice cream parlor/luncheonette/confectionery has just 14 tables. Opening at half capacity wouldn't help as much as other places. The family prepared for the worst.

While the coronavirus hasn't forced the restaurant to close permanently yet, owners fear that could be coming soon. Their landlord tried to sell the building, but the sale fell through, Hunter Acosta said. The building is back up for sale, but the landlord told the family Hildebrant's can stay if they agreed to up the monthly rent to $5,000. The family does not believe it can make monthly payments, leaving the family in limbo.

"So we aren't sure what is going to happen at the moment," Hunter Acosta said.

The family hasn't given up hope just yet, and it may have found an ace up its sleeve: obtaining a historic designation. Specifically, with the National Register of Historic Places.

According to the National Parks Service, the registry is the official list of the nation's historic places worthy of preservation. Properties must meet certain criteria to be eligible for the list. Properties typically must be at least 50 years old and appear similarly as they did in the past. The property must also have a connection with important historical events, activities or developments.

Earning a spot on the list would allow for federal preservation grants for planning and renovation, federal investment tax credits and preservation easements to nonprofit groups. State tax and grant benefits could also be in store.

The idea came from neighbors in an unlikely place: its Facebook page.

"Many people suggested it," Hunter Acosta said. "We thought you had to be 100 for it to be considered a landmark, but you actually have to be about 75 and considering we are way past that point, we should be able to get that status."

At first glance, Hildebrant's makes a strong case for inclusion.

The restaurant opened in 1927 or 1929 — there's evidence to suggest either could be the case — by Henry Hildebrandt, the eatery said on its website. Despite having four families take over the business since then, the business model has largely remained unchanged.

"We know that only four families have owned the place in all that time: Henry sold to Alma Steffens in the '50s; Alma sold to Helen Baum in 1974; and Mrs. Baum sold it to my parents, Alfred and Joanne Strano in 1975," Bryan Acosta said on the restaurant's website. "Henry Schriever, the original candy maker, trained by Henry, trained my dad, Alfred, and the recipes have continued to be handed down and closely guarded. Alfred and Joanne's daughters: Joanne, Anne and Susan all worked at Hildebrandt's through high school and beyond. Susan and her husband, Bryan Acosta, bought the store in 2007, and ran it together until Susan's passing in June 2015. Since then, Bryan has kept the tradition going. Their children Dakota and Hunter Acosta, both worked here during their high school years, and Hunter is currently working with her father, still family owned and operated."

The family has applied for the designation, Hunter Acosta said. While the landlord can evict the family even with the designation, the building itself would have to remain Hildebrant's.

"We are working at our current location being a landmark, so even if it’s not in my family, it will always remain Hildebrandt's," she said.