Here Comes Urban Smoke, Brooklyn's Newest BBQ Joint

• Pictured: the interior of Urban Smoke. Photos by John V. Santore

CROWN HEIGHTS, BROOKLYN — Bar-B-Que: beloved, but surprisingly stuck in its ways.

That's how David Schaaf sees it, at least. The executive chef of the soon-to-open Urban Smoke said his culinary resume involves serving up food from Greece, New Zealand and Spain.

For his newest venture, however, he wanted to bring a fresh take to a classic genre.

He says Urban Smoke, which will open on May 31 at 417 Prospect Pl. (it shares the address with Nacho Macho Taco next door), isn't a replica of a "southern tradition that nobody changes because their grandmother would murder them."

"Why doesn't anyone smoke steak?" he said. "Why doesn't anyone smoke cauliflower?"

And don't get him started on the menu of sides that never changes, no matter the time of year.

"Who walks in when it's 98 degrees and orders hot mashed sweet potatoes?" Shaaf said.

Urban Smoke executive chef David Shaaf

Schaaf's partner in the venture is David Schneider, the owner of Oaxaca Taqueria, who converted an old garage at the intersection of Atlantic and Franklin Avenues into the home of the smoker where Urban Smoke will prep its food.

The spring menu (embedded below) includes smoked meatloaf ("The smoke adheres so nicely to meatloaf," Shaaf said), lamb ribs, and pulled turkey neck, a "highly underutilized" part of the bird, according to the chef, which "really emulates pulled pork, but it's turkey and its not terrible for you."

Shaaf said he's a fan of his upcoming elote corn pudding, featuring smoked, roasted peppers, avocado cream and cotija cheese.

And when discussing the project with friends and business partners, Schaaf said he heard the call of the vegetarians. As he put it, "We are aware of where we are."

So Urban Smoke will offer side dishes without meat, as well as some vegetarian entrees, like the Rusty Oyster sandwich, made from smoked pulled mushrooms served with Korean BBQ sauce and kimchi.

Outside Urban Smoke

Shaaf said he wants to use free-range, organic meat, but he has to find a way to make it work economically, considering that it can double the cost of a sandwich. He said the store will offer specials using those kinds of ingredients, and will continue doing so if there's a demand for it.

Urban Smoke has three locations planned. Its spot in Crown Heights will be for take-out and grab-and-go orders, since there isn't space for seating inside.

In two or three months, a second take-out location will open at 478 Halsey St. in Bed-Stuy, with a third restaurant with seating planned for the fall at 406 Rogers Ave. in Prospect-Lefferts Gardens.

The restaurants will be open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Shaaf said, six or seven says per week.