Bites Nearby: Setauket Pastaria Delivers the Usual Favorites

Overview: First impressions in this case are pretty much on point. Walk into and you'll get the sense from your surroundings that you're in a casual neighborhood Italian restaurant that serves traditional favorites – which, once you sit down and taste the food, you'll see is pretty much the case.

Decor: Detailed murals cover the walls to simulate the feeling of dining in a European cafe, and an elegant brick bar adds to the atmosphere. It's sophisticated but not overwhelming.

Drinks: A full bar includes a moderate variety of beer, wine and liquor. House wines by the glass are $6 apiece and pretty standard in terms of selection, but the bottles offer a bit more variety, including Napa Valley cabernets and whites from both California and Italy.

Appetizers & Entrees: The basic Italian fare is tasty, and some more unique creations are welcome additions to the menu. The pasta fagiole ($3.95) will satisfy lovers of that traditional soup with its hearty beans and big chunks of garlic. The warm spinach salad ($9.95; $5.95 for a half portion) is unusual but striking in its combination of flavors: bacon, mushrooms and onions accompany the spinach with a savory effect. The mussels marinara ($6.95 for a lunch-sized dish) are saucy and addictive, so it's a good thing portions are pretty big. The restaurant also offers a top-notch selection of pizza, featured in a recent , along with classics like chicken parmigiana, chicken francaise, sausage and peppers, and more.

Desserts: Homemade cannoli ($5) are practically a requirement at Italian eateries, but the restaurant also offers a mouth-watering selection of other desserts ($5.75 each): toasted almond cream cake, creme brulee cheesecake, key lime pie and carrot cake are among the offerings.

Setauket Pastaria
Address: 4082 Nesconset Hwy, East Setauket
Chef: Martino Lopez
Price: $$