Gel Polish Ingredient Linked To Infertility: What To Know About Safety

Should you give up your guilty pleasures — long-lasting gel manicures and pedicures — because some studies have linked a key ingredient to infertility?

The question came up after the European Union placed a precautionary ban on the sale of gel polishes containing the ingredient trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO, in response to studies on animals linked exposure to reproductive issues.

No such ban exists in the United States, nor is one likely, cosmetic chemists told NBC’s “Today” show.

That’s because of differences in the regulatory processes in the European Union and United States. The EU assesses potential hazards, while the U.S. Food and Drug Administration adopts a risk-based approach that considers both the hazard and the likelihood of exposure.

It’s unlikely the FDA will ban gel polishes with TPO, both experts said. Such a ban “is not supported by a scientifically justified risk assessment,” cosmetic chemist and nail industry expert Doug Schoon told “Today.”

Such a ban would be a “waste of safe products,” he said. The EU ban, which took effect Sept. 1, required salons to dispose of their existing inventory of gel polishes containing TPO.

Here are some things to know:

What Is TPO?

TPO is a chemical that absorbs UV or LED light, which triggers the hardening of the liquid gel into a solid, durable coating on the nail.

The ingredient allows for the quick drying, chip-resistant and glossy finish that make gel polishes appealing.

TPOs are widely used in industrial applications and are the second fastest-growing sector of the thermoplastic industry, according to the management consulting firm, Markets and Markets, which was originally founded as a market research company.

Known for their impact resistance, UV stability and low density, they’re mainly used in automotive applications, including on dashboards, interior trims and bumpers.

They’re also used for roofing membranes on flat or low-slope commercial and residential roofs due to their UV and weather resistance, energy efficiency, cost-effectiveness and durability.

TPOs are found in a wide variety of consumer goods, in water-resistant packaging, and a variety of other applications that require resistance to oils, chemicals and greases.

They’re also used in printing inks, paints and adhesives, and are also used in dentistry to help cure composite fillings.

What Does Research Show?

The studies that prompted the EU’s precautionary ban were conducted primarily on rats and found the risk of negative reproductive outcomes for males, “Today” reported.

For example, a 2020 study found male rats experienced “massive” changes in their testicles that reduced their fertility. In another 2020 study, researchers found “testicular atrophy” and reduced fertility among male rates exposed to TPO.

Importantly, the animals were fed high doses of TPO, while a much smaller amount is placed on the human nail.

“The exposure conditions in these animal studies bear no resemblance to realistic scenarios in cosmetic use,” Schoon said.

Should You Worry About TPO In Gels?

Both Schoon and cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos told “Today.” there’s no reason to think that using gel polishes with TPO will lead to fertility problems or pose a risk to overall health.

“In the gel nail system, TPO is applied to the nail, which is made of densely packed keratin, and cured into a solid matrix, significantly limiting systemic exposure,” Dobos said.

Do All Gels Contain TPO?

Non-TPO gel polish is available. Just look at the ingredient list for the chemical name, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or wording such as “TPO-free” or “no TPO formula.”

Jamie Alan, an associate professor of pharmacology and toxicology at Michigan State University, told Women’s Health that people who get infrequent manicures probably don’t have to worry about TPO exposure.

“However, heavy users may want to consider switching to a product without TPO,” Alan said. “There are several products that do not have TPO that could be used as a substitute.”

Dobos told “Today” she expects the selection of TPO-free gel polishes to increase with the EU ban.

Are Gels A Good Choice Overall?

The trade-offs for the durable, high-gloss and fast-drying finish that lasts for weeks are exposure to UV/LED lamp and potential damage or allergic reactions from improper application and removal processes, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.

Improper or repeated application and removal can lead to nail brittleness, peeling, and cracking.

Also, the Cleveland Clinic said, the process of curing a gel manicure involves repeated exposure to damaging ultraviolet A rays, or UVA, that can cause skin aging and DNA damage that can lead to cancer.

Alone that may not seem a great risk, but it’s important to remember how much you use your hands and how rarely you think to protect them, dermatologist Dr. Chey Ranasinghe, told Cleveland Clinic’s healthessentials newsletter.

“We already get regular UV exposure while holding the steering wheel when we drive,” Ranasinghe said. “Adding on the cumulative bursts of UV exposure that happen during the curing process of gel manicures increases UV-induced skin damage and risk.”

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen to the hands before gel manicures.

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