Not a Food Critic, Just Impressed: A Night at 87 Sussex

At first glance, I didn’t think 87 Sussex would be for me.

I’m what I’d call a safe eater - someone who usually sticks to familiar flavors and doesn’t often venture far outside of my comfort zone. Menus that feel more adventurous can sometimes intimidate me, so I arrived a bit unsure of what to expect. But from the very beginning, I was pleasantly surprised, and that feeling only grew as the night went on.

We began the evening sharing several appetizers family-style, which turned out to be the perfect way to experience the menu without feeling overwhelmed. The Shopska Salad was incredibly fresh and clean tasting. Crisp tomatoes and cucumbers paired beautifully with the saltiness of the shaved Bulgarian feta, while the red wine vinaigrette tied everything together without overpowering the dish. It was simple, and far more satisfying than I expected.

The Black-Tie Scallop was one of those dishes I wouldn’t normally order, but I’m so glad I tried it. The scallop was perfectly cooked and tender, and the richness of the veal jus paired beautifully with the subtle earthiness of the truffle. The puff pastry added a comforting texture that made the dish feel approachable rather than intimidating.

Another pleasant surprise was the Porcini Cassoulet, a dish that ended up feeling unexpectedly cozy. The porcini ragout was rich without being heavy, and the combination of prosciutto, pancetta, and Sicilian olives added layers of savory flavor. The mascarpone polenta brought everything together, making it feel familiar and comforting.

Before our main courses arrived, Chef Brian Walter came out to greet our table, walking us through the menu and offering thoughtful suggestions. That personal touch immediately set the tone for the evening…it felt welcoming, intentional, and genuinely warm.

For my entrée, I went with the Braised Short Rib, which was probably the least daring choice of my meal, but it came highly recommended, and for good reason. It was insanely delicious, braised until it literally melted in my mouth. The dish was rich without being overwhelming, and the white sweet potato mousseline added a smooth, comforting balance. Paired with the Chinese long beans and the subtle sweetness of the Vidalia onion crown, the dish felt familiar yet elevated.

While the food was outstanding, the true star of the evening was our server, Rays. I don’t think I’ve ever experienced such attention to detail. Rays remembered our names and addressed us individually, checking in thoughtfully throughout the night. Despite being a large group celebrating a 50th birthday, the service felt intimate and personal - never rushed, never overlooked.

The décor at 87 Sussex was equally inviting. The space felt warm and comfortable while still being polished, creating an atmosphere that encouraged conversation and lingering at the table.

I would absolutely go back again and again...and after seeing the brunch menu, I already know what my next visit will be for. 87 Sussex managed to surprise me in the best possible way, proving that even a safe eater can find plenty to love when the experience is done this well.

Who 87 Sussex Is For

• Celebrations both big and small. Whether it’s a milestone birthday or a special night out, the space and service make it feel meaningful without being overly formal.
• “Safe eaters” who are open to being surprised. If you usually stick to familiar dishes but want to dip your toe into something a little more adventurous, this menu feels guided, approachable, and thoughtfully executed.
• Groups who value exceptional service. The kind of place where attentive, personal service elevates the entire experience, even with larger parties.
• Anyone who appreciates a welcoming atmosphere. The décor and ambiance strike a comfortable balance between polished and inviting.
• Brunch enthusiasts. After seeing the brunch menu, it’s clear this is a spot worth returning to with friends for a fun afternoon.