Restaurants & Bars

Not-So-Deep-Dish Detroit Pizza Rises Deep In the Heart of Texas

What was once a "ghost kitchen" creating Detroit-style pizzas during the pandemic has proven so popular it's now a brick-and-mortar eatery.

A pandemic "ghost kitchen" has proven Detroit-style pizzas are so popular in the metroplex that they demand their own location.
A pandemic "ghost kitchen" has proven Detroit-style pizzas are so popular in the metroplex that they demand their own location. (Image Credit: Jeff Amador)

DALLAS, TX — For anyone haunted by the specter of 202o, not all ghost stories lead to a tragic end.

Last year, Thunderbird Pies began as a "ghost kitchen" concept to deliver locked-down locals Detroit-style pizza. The pies proved to be such crowd-pleasers that this ghost has now has corporeal form as a brick-and-mortar location across the White Rock Lake spillway at 7328 Gaston Ave.

The concept is the brainchild of Jay Jerrier, the founder of Cane Rosso, and arrives nicely paired —with an additional treat —the much-beloved Cow Tipping Creamery ice cream shop.

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At the outset, Thunderbird was a roll of the dice during the pandemic, as a "ghost kitchen," which is to say it operated under the radar at Zoli's Pizza in Fort Worth and Addison.

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“Obviously, the past year and a half has been tough for everyone,” says Jerrier, whose PILF Restaurant Group now includes a trio of brands (including Cane Rosso, Zoli’s Pizza, and Cow Tipping Creamery), “but I guess one good thing to come out of the pandemic is Thunderbird Pies.”

At the helm of Thunderbird Pies is recently-inducted member of the World Pizza Champions Team Lee Hunzinger, who put his pandemic “downtime” to good use during the first few months of lockdown to perfect his Detroit-style pizza dough and add a bit of personal flair to what people normally expect when they hit up their typical pizza joint.

For instance, Hunzinger’s pizza menu features a full dozen signature pies — ranging from the obligatory cheese or pepperoni to more exotic pies that feature Hunzinger’s toppings approach of “more is more.”

T-Bird pies are readily identified by their signature “frico” cheese crust edges, Wisconsin brick cheese, a thick but light crumb, and sauce always present on top of the pizza.

“Ultimately, Detroit- style pizza is so different from the soggy pizza tortillas that we make at Cane Rosso, we didn’t think that we’d be competing with ourselves too much," Jerrier says.

"This is a good spot for casual takeout and delivery, as we’re able to reach lots of people in East Dallas, Lakewood, Deep Ellum, downtown, and Knox/Henderson. Plus, believe it or not, you can have pizza more than once a week; I’ve been doing it for years, and I’m the picture of health!"


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