A Tried and True Family Tradition

“Always oil and bless the dough,” my mom said on Good Friday, as she made the sign of the cross into the heaping, sweet-smelling goodness.

She was completing one of her yearly baking rituals—Italian Easter Bread, a rich, sweet bread made with anise seed.

Every year, until I left for Miami University (I think I even came home just in time a couple of those years to help), I helped my mom in the kitchen with this special task. We had a routine: we mixed the dough, let it rise and fasted—we usually listened to the “Jesus Christ Superstar” soundtrack and dyed eggs in between.

It was tradition for as long as I can remember—think single digits. Each year, I’d learn something new. I’d get better at braiding the bread and I’d always be given the extra dough to make a loaf in the shape of a bunny—or whatever came to my imagination.

But it wasn’t until this year that I found out how old the family recipe actually is. It's approximately 100 years old—yes, 1-0-0.

My mom’s father’s side of the family—the DeSimones—shared the recipe with my Nana, who is 100 percent Czechoslovakian. She learned hands-on from my aunt and continues to make it today—she's 80.

My mom started making the bread at the age of 19 and she's never missed a year—she makes 14 to 18 loaves and gives them to family, friends and neighbors on Easter.

My grandfather would be proud of both my grandmother and my mom; he passed away 20 years ago.

Traditionally, the bread is made during Easter week. Sometimes it's referred to as Egg Bread because many versions are baked with whole, colored eggs in the dough. Some traditions also call for colored sprinkles and twisted dough, rather than braided.

Every spring, I wait for that dense yet flaky, anise-flavored treat. I make it last for many breakfasts post-Easter. It’s the best toasted with butter.

My mom said the key is letting the dough rise—three times. You let it rise in a bowl, then punch it down; You let it rise again, then braid the loaves; and finally, you let the braids rise before brushing them with egg and baking.

It's an all-day affair and, in years to come, I'm up for taking on the challenge. This and quite a few other recipes from both sides of the family I've placed on a mental baking list.

As for the Bosco side, Easter is all about Easter pizza—a blend of Italian cheeses, hot sausage and egg baked in pie dough. Perhaps that story's for next year.