La' Shukran Has A Great Story To Tell In Washington

WASHINGTON – I am normally not the kind of guy who chases a “hot new spot” type of restaurant. Partially because in my life, I have been fortunate to usually preview these places ahead of time or because I have historically wanted to give these places breathing room before visiting. I decided to stop into La’ Shukran, a new bistro, bar, and rooftop terrace in the Union Market District.

The dining menu is the work of 2024 James Beard Award winner for Outstanding Chef, Michael Rafidi, while the cocktail program is the work of Radovan Jankovic. Washington is no stranger to either names, but I am as a visitor from the Sunshine State. Rafidi has previously worked with Chef Michael Mina for years in French cuisine at RN74 in San Francisco.

I’ll admit to not really doing much research ahead of time, but still wanting an adventure. That is exactly what I experienced. The hummus and poppyseed sourdough menu has a variety of choices for diners. Being originally from San Francisco, I knew I needed to see what this sourdough would be like.

The Smoky Escargot Swimming in Arak Butter was a great introduction to Chef Rafidi. My eyes were rolling back with every bite. The intensity of flavors in my mouth, the way they were all complementing each other. This mastery of taste. Arak is a distilled Levantine spirit of the anise drinks family, traditionally made of grapes and aniseed. The flavor is spread throughout the menu, the taste itself foreign to me but somehow comforting. The coolness and softness of the sourdough bread is perfection in the hummus.

Comforting is a good way to describe the menu at La’ Shukran. The minds behind these menus have taken different dishes and given them interesting twists that are still very unique and accessible to anyone, no matter how much knowledge you might have about the food, which is something I think diners can appreciate. Sometimes stepping into a world you do not know as a diner can be a little daunting. We have all been the person Googling ingredients and as fun as that might be, it is also nice to quickly know what you are planning to order.

That brings me to the Lamb Belly Fried Rice with Huckleberries, & a Dollop of Yogurt. This dish is rich and filling. Easily sharable although it a main entree. What I found most interesting about this dish is how crispy and flavorful the rice is without being too greasy, the way the yogurt just enhances fried rice, and the crispiness of the lamb belly and juiciness inside that almost made me think I was eating beef brisket several times. Incredible.

When it comes to the cocktail program, there is something for most people. The menu itself is beautifully designed and bartenders are well-trained on how to explain what the menu relates to. The flavors are quite unique though and certainly push boundaries, which could be a little bit of a turnoff for the less adventurous. The arak-forward drinks will leave your mouth full of intense flavor and could be suited more to sipping than enjoying with a meal. Even a classic cocktail is reinvented in ways you might not anticipate.

The best drink was the SimSim with rye, sesame, date molasses, tamarind and banana. One thing you will notice is that drinks are not spirit-forward, but instead spirits are woven into the drinks – sometimes right beneath the surface. The way the rye was transformed kept me intrigued on every sip.

I was impressed with how despite having a completely packed restaurant, bartenders took care to speak to each guest, to learn their preferences and to understand how to recommend what was best. These bartenders were inviting, full-service, and world-class. The guests came with questions and many were exhausted from a long week. The environment was intimate and personable.

Honest opinions were asked and feedback respectfully noted. An interesting moment was when we discussed “authenticity” and why some of the staff chooses to work at La’ Shukran. The word “authentic” has been regularly dissected and discussed in food media. What does the word really mean? For many restaurants its a buzzword. Authentic is in the eyes of the beholder. Culture and history are relevancy for many though and one bartender mentioned how at this place he feels like he can connect with his true self and his heritage. That was moving.

Despite being incredibly full, there was not a chance I would skip dessert. The Kunafa Nabulsi was drenched in syrup, pistachio, and apricot ice cream. This perfect marriage of flavors with Palestinian roots should not be missed. Unlike some heavier desserts, nothing about the Kunafa Nabulsi was overbearing. Instead it was a subtle mixture of flavors, like so many other menu items at La’ Shukran simply a feeling of home and comfort.

Enjoyed with Bedouin Coffee cocktail made with mezcal, rum, carob molasses, orange, cardamom cream, you’ll have bitterness, sweetness, and savory all in one. It isn’t an espresso martini, but actually more like a spiked cold brew.

One line that stuck with me after dinner was that the bartender said one thing he loves about working in his field is: “No matter where you go, there’s stories to tell.” I love that and La’ Shukran has a great story waiting for diners inside.

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About me: Hello my name is Carlos Hernandez and I am a writer and journalist with over 10 years of experience. I write the food and travel blog Carlos Eats (https://www.carloseats.com) and also contribute to several newspapers and magazines on numerous topics.