Anti-Aging Products: Fact v. Fiction

by Dr. Raman Madan

Aging skin is inevitable, but we still have some control over how our skin ages. My dermatology patients ask regularly about anti-aging products: Which products will deliver results? Which should they avoid? And, of course, when should they start using them?

It can be challenging to navigate the crowded market of products when we’re flooded with options and overwhelmed by hype. But there are simple ways we can keep skin healthy and vibrant.
That means focusing first on the most important factor in skin aging: the sun. The sun’s ultraviolet radiation age our skin by causing wrinkles, age spots, and a loss of elasticity over time. These rays also increase the risk of skin cancer.

It makes sunscreen our most powerful anti-aging product, and the foundation of any strategy to slow aging while promoting basic skin health. Start using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher at a young age, daily, and rain or shine. Reapply every two hours, especially after outdoor activities such as swimming or sweating, and wear a hat and sunglasses.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, also consistently delivers anti-aging results. Retinols increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It helps skin behave younger.

While some patients start using retinol in their 30s, there's no harm in doing so earlier, especially because it can treat acne. Retinol also can cause dryness and irritation, especially initially, so it’s important to start with a small amount a few times a week, then gradually increase frequency as skin adjusts. I recommend using a moisturizer afterward. Those seeking more dramatic results can ask a dermatologist about prescription-strength tretinoin.

Hydration also is crucial to maintaining a youthful appearance. Look for moisturizers containing ceramides, which help repair the skin barrier and lock in moisture, and hyaluronic acid, a humectant that draws moisture from the air to plump up the skin. Together, these ingredients keep our skin hydrated, supple, and resilient.

The sheer volume of anti-aging products can be overwhelming, and many products charge high prices as they boast their effects. But expensive doesn't always mean better. Focus on core ingredients: sunscreen, retinol, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid. The word, "natural" may be appealing on a package, but natural ingredients can trigger allergic reactions. It’s important to avoid products that contain potential allergens, including soy, tree nuts, chamomile, and lavender--especially for patients with sensitive skin.

Serums, concentrated formulations packed with active ingredients, also are popular. Though some patients swear by them, they're not essential for everyone. Those who want to use serums should look for products that contain hyaluronic acid, retinol, or vitamin C. Apply them after cleansing and before moisturizing.

While there are genetic differences in skin aging between men and women--men tend to have more oily skin and a slightly thicker dermis–the fundamentals of using sun protection and establishing a simple, consistent skincare routine are essential, regardless of gender. We cannot stop the very natural process of aging. However, we can prioritize sun protection and incorporate ingredients like retinol, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid into a skincare routine to slow visible signs of aging and maintain healthy, radiant skin.

Raman Madan, MD is a dermatologist for Northwell Health in Huntington.